Medieval entwined with modern, Tallinn dazzles with star
quality. The capital city of the small country of Estonia proudly dances to its
own spirited tune.
“Tallinn is such a great place. You cannot help but fall in
love with it,” exclaimed a friendly young local when I asked her for
directions.
Despite being a 21st century high-tech city (this
is the home of Skype), with glass skyscrapers and wi-fi connections practically
everywhere, it is the walled Old Town that looks like it has jumped out of a
Disney fairy tale that wins your heart.
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| Ariel view of the town wall and St Olav's Church By Toomas Volmer Courtesy of Tallinn City Tourist Office & Convention Bureau |
Ancient church spires watch over narrow cobbled streets
lined with baroque palaces, wooden houses that have seen better days, top notch
restaurants, and delightful shops.
The testaments to Soviet times remind you that it was only in 1991
that Estonia regained its independence after what became known as the
“Singing Revolution”. Song united the passions of the people of Estonia
and gave them the strength to stand up to the Soviet Union and sing their way
to independence.
Today’s Tallinn enthusiastically embraces the future while
keeping its roots firmly in the past. Tallinn began life in the 13th
century when the knights of the Teutonic Order built a castle there. It evolved
to become a major centre of the Hanseatic League. The opulent public buildings,
especially the churches, and the splendid merchants’ houses are manifestations
of the city’s wealth. Over the centuries, war and fire have wreaked havoc on
Tallinn. That so much has survived is amazing.
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| Town Hall Square |
The two-tiered Old Town, where I spent most of my time, is a Unesco World Heritage site. Toompea (Dome Hill) is the place to go for stunning views of the city. It is where the city’s aristocracy lived and is also home to the city’s most important buildings including the onion-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral build in 1900, a badge of Tsarist mastery, and the pink Estonian Parliament.
After strolling down the hill, I found myself in the
bustling Town Hall Square. For centuries this market place has been the beating
heart of the Old Town. From lively cafés spilling out on to it, tourists, like
myself, gaze at what is said to be Northern Europe’s only surviving Gothic Town
Hall, home to Old Thomas, the weather vane, one of Tallinn’s renowned symbols.
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| Street in the Old Town |
The energetic can make the arduous climb up steep winding stairs to the top of the tower of St Olav’s Church which dates back to the 13th century.
There are plenty of museums that tell the story of Tallinn
for you to while away the hours but the real spirit of the city is found in the
air itself. It is just being there.
Take a peek at the fascinating Town Hall Pharmacy,
established in 1422. It claims
to be Europe’s oldest continuously running pharmacy. In its heyday, it had such
a reputation that the Russian tsar ordered medicines from it. I can only wonder
what he would think about the products it sells today. In the side room you
will find an intriguing array of 17th -20th-century medicinal
knick-knacks.
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| Towers and wall of the Old Town |
Billed as a “spectacular relic of Talinn’s past”, the 15th-century Great Guild Hall, now a museum, is one that history buffs will not want to miss. It covers Estonia's history from prehistoric times’ to the end of the 20th century.
If you want your creative juices to flow, you can climb some of the towers and a section of
the wall to get a feel of what it must have been like to fight off medieval
invaders.
Meander along the charming Katariina käik (St
Catherine’s Passage) where you will find lovely craft workshops begging you to
go in and mooch around.
As I refuelled at one of the city’s many great restaurants,
I thought back to my encounter with the lovely Estonian I had met that morning.
She was right I did fall in love with Tallinn, hook line and sinker.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Finnair has flights from London Heathrow to Tallinn. There
is one stop. For best rates and details visit finnair.com
You could fly direct with Ryanair. For details of airports and best rates visit
ryanair.com
Stay at The Three Sisters. This luxury hotel has been
created from three of Tallinn’s 14th-century merchant houses which
have been renovated. Nightly rates start from £127 for a Superior Room. For
more information and to book visit relaischateaux.com
