Irresistible chocolaty aromas waft through the air
everywhere you go. If there were a god of chocolate he would look down on
Brussels, the city that has this mouth-watering treat woven into its fabric,
and smile contentedly at a job well done. For there is no doubt about it, Brussels is chocolate heaven.
Aficionados of this delicious brown stuff hold this
city, the capital of Belgium, in high esteem when it comes to innovation. It
was over a hundred years ago that Jean Neuhaus invented the praline. From then
on Brussels has been at the cutting-edge of the chocolate industry and has
earned itself the reputation of being one of the best.
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©J.Almblad
Courtesy of VisitFlanders
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The average Belgian
is said to devour about 6kg (13lbs approx) of chocolate per year, one of
the highest rates of consumption on the planet. To satisfy their
appetite, there are hundreds of chocolatiers that cater for all palettes from
household names such as Godiva to Mary, the grande dame of chocolate, beloved by the Belgian royal family.
Now chocolate fans have another pull, the Belgian
Chocolate Village. This museum, one
of the largest in Europe, is in the district of Koekelberg, not far from
the city centre.
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| Pierre Marcolin |
It is built on the site of the old Victoria chocolate and
biscuit factory that started out in life in the late 1900s. In 1969, the
company moved. Over the following years, other companies including Godiva
occupied it. At one point it looked as if the building would be transformed
into loft apartments, but an area of 900 square metres was acquired by the
local council to be turned into a shrine to chocolate.
Stretching over three floors, you can learn about the
history, culture and production. Take a self-guided interactive tour and you
will be surprised how much you can learn about this delicacy on its journey
from bean to bar.
At the heart of the village is the tropical greenhouse
that mimics the conditions for cocoa trees and other exotic plants such as
spices used for flavourings. If all that has set your taste buds alight, book yourself
into a chocolate tasting, learn how to make a ganache or try your hand at a
cookery course.
I can never have too much chocolate, so it was time to
try out some of the newer artisan masters who have broken away from the
traditional image associated with Belgium. They are experimenting with
avant-garde techniques that are raising the bar.
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| Making chocolate |
Savouring creations
hand-made by the person selling it, is in my book, taking your senses
on a journey of discovery. Pierre Marcolini, a former pastry chef, has been
tantalising Belgians since he opened his first shop in Brussels in 1995. He
controls every stage of the production from the plantation to the point of sale. His shops
are minimal yet elegant. .He uses high-quality fruits and ingredients to
conjure up an enticing collection.
His wares will definitely seduce you.
A favourite of mine is Laurent Gerbaud. For over a decade
now the maestro has turned his work into an art form, pairing chocolate,
fruits, nuts and spices. Having spent time in China, he got to grips with the country's penchants. Back on home soil, this experience comes through in his
work. Even his logo is chocolate in Chinese characters.
His exclusive 75 per cent dark chocolate couverture prepared
by Domori, one of Europe’s highly-regarded producers, he likens to a vintage
wine.
Laurent also held a sampling session which will ensure the
mass-produced bars will never quite hold the same appeal. I also got to make
some chocolate under Laurent’s expert tuition which was a unique experience.
We also had lunch there. Savoury and chocolate is a
remarkably good pairing. It is a theme that Laurent is building on as he hopes
to open a restaurant. I, for one will be clamouring to get a table!
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Eurostar operates daily services from London St Pancras
International to Brussels-Midi. Return fares from £69. More more info visit
eurostar.com
I stayed at the Dominican. For more information and
the best rates visit thedominican.be
For information on Brussels and Flanders go to www.visitflanders.co.uk
