Monday 26 May 2014

Destination Costa Barcelona, Catalonia




Costa Barcelona
Courtesy of  Barcelona Province Council


As soon as our eyes met, I felt an instant frisson of excitement. Love at first sight, it might not have been, but there was definitely a spark between me and Marquès. I felt he had my measure and understood me. 

The last time I had ridden a donkey was when I was five years old, so understandably, a few decades later, I was nervous about embarking on a 50-minute ride. As soon as I mounted Marquès, I knew I was in safe hands. 

Marquès did all the work. I didn’t have to tug on the reins, pull to turn or ask him to go slower or faster. In fact all I had to do was sit back and relax as we walked through the Maresme side of the Natural Park of Corredor-Montnegre enjoying being up close and personal with nature. There was a guide who led the group and the donkeys followed each other. You could tell they were pros and had done this before.

It was hard to believe that the Association of Rucs del Corredor, an initiative to preserve different donkey species, was only 50 kilometres from the city of Barcelona. The passion that the owners John and Paloma compan Vicente have is infectious and you can’t help but be moved by the seeing happy donkeys. 


Getting ready for the donkey ride


The star of the show had to be a baby who was only four weeks old, who appeared to bask in the joy of celebrity as it posed for pictures. No matter whether you are four or ninety–four, this visit is a great experience and incredible fun and maybe not what you would expect to find on the Costa Barcelona.

This area is full of wonderful surprises all waiting to be unwrapped. It serves up a rich and varied menu with wide-ranging appeal from stunning beaches for those who want the sun and sand holiday to hiking, biking and water sports for the more adventurous, to exploring the Catalan Art Nouveau routes for those who want an injection of culture.

The night before our visit to the donkeys, my companions and I had been in the nautical resort of Vilanova i la Geltrú. Sailing past super-yachts, with a flute of cava in hand, we wallowed in the therapeutic pleasures of being on a boat while watching the sun sink, giving the sea the appearance of a precious shiny metal.

Lavished with golden sandy beaches, this coastal town is a tourist magnet in summer. Crammed with excellent restaurants, bars, and night spots, it has a great ambience and charm. Hotels are mainly small and cosy. Don’t expect to find the luxury five-star here. You can easily take a break from a stay in Barcelona and come for a day at the beach or venture further afield.  

It would be impossible to talk about Costa Barcelona and not mention its culinary prowess. Of course, on the Mediterranean you expect to get wonderful fish. We saw the boats bringing in the catch of the day.

There was such an array of fish including sea bass, hake, squid and crayfish that I tried different ones every day. It was not only the fish that sent your taste buds on a sensory journey, the vegetables and fruit were also rather special. I can still taste the artichokes from El Prat and the strawberries from El Maresme. 

Catalan recipes for the most part are healthy – well, not all the desserts – I told myself convincingly as I tucked into huge portions at every meal. Anyway it would not have mattered if overindulging took a toll on the waistline, Vueling Airlines were not be going to weigh me for the return flight  home.



A vineyard in the Penedès


There were plenty of delicious local wines to wash it all down with. The Penedès DO (denomination of origin), tucked in between the plains of the Mediterranean coast and the nearby mountains is the largest in Catalonia and is renowned for its cava as well as having some rather good whites, rosés and reds. A trip to a couple of wineries was, of course, obligatory for educational purposes you understand. (More on wines in another post.)

During a ride on a Segway through a section of the Els 3 Monts, the hiking and trekking trail that connects the natural parks of Barcelona, (El Montseny, Sant Llorenç del Munt and Montserrat) was where I saw history and modernity rubbing shoulders. Whizzing through picturesque natural landscapes that have been inhabited since way back when, and dotted with pretty farmhouses – many now hotels – was stuff memories are made of.

We also managed to fit in a flying visit to the Delta of Llobregat, one of the region’s principal wetland areas for a spot of bird watching. It has over 60 species as well as other interesting creatures including 13 types of reptiles. Don’t forget to wear insect repellent, its home to plenty of mosquitoes!

Costa Barcelona dances to an independent spirit. Catalans have their own cultural identity, and it is extremely evident as you travel through the region. So much so that many think that “Catalonia is not Spain”, it is Catalonia.

By Daralyn Danns 

Getting there

Vueling airlines offers direct flights from London Gatwick to El Prat airport, Barcelona, For the best fares and more information visit www.vueling.com

For a low-cost airline, this was pretty impressive

Hotels

Hotel Solvi Passeig Ribes Roges 1 Vilanova i la Geltrú  Barcelona

Hostal Cal Pla (www.hostalcalpla.com) Avinguda Catalunya 56 (Sant Llorenç Savall)

Hotel Porta d’Alella (www.hotelportadalella.es)  Av Sant Mateu, 5-9 Alella

Tourist information

Barcelona is much more (www.barcelonaismuchmore.com) and  (www.barcelonaesmoltmes.cat/en/costabarcelona)

Barcelona Province Council (promocio@diba.cat) Tel: 00 34 93 402 22 60