From the top of Cerro de Monserrate, the view of Bogotá shrouded by smog was irresistibly
hypnotic and alluring. The church and its shrine to Señor Caído (Fallen Lord),
reputed to be responsible for many miracles, may have been attracting visitors
to this hill for hundreds of years, but the fact that I was actually here in
Colombia’s capital was reward enough.
Not so long ago the mere mention of Bogotá conjured up
images of kidnappings and cocaine. Now boho chic fuses with urban grit. And,
mainly due to the former president Álvaro Uribe and Antanas Mockus, a past
mayor, South America’s edgiest city dances to a different beat. The streets,
set against a backing track of tropical birdsong, are filled with the aromas of
freshly brewed Colombian coffee and the scent of beautiful flowers. The most coveted souvenirs are emeralds.
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| Bogotá Courtesy of Proexport Colombia |
Perched in the Eastern Andes, Bogotá is approximately 8,700ft (2,650m) above sea level. The weather is spring-like all year round with warm days and chilly nights. Once you acclimatise to the altitude, you will find the city easy to get around as it is laid out in a grid system of carreras and calles.
Bogotá is a vibrant, modern city where cultural mixes
of Spanish and Indian meld with high-rises and universities rubbing shoulders
with colonial houses and shanty towns. (Like any other metropolis, there are
parts that you don’t venture.) The city’s frenetic pace and heaving traffic are
tempered with green oases of tranquillity.
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| La Candelaria, the old historic neighbourhood |
The Bogotanos are extremely welcoming and even going through
immigration was easy because the staff were so helpful. They all seem genuinely
pleased to see tourists, which makes a refreshing change.
To get a feel of how Bogotá started, head to La
Candelaria, the old historic neighbourhood. At its heart is the Plaza de
Bolívar, home of the presidential palace Casa de Nariño, other government
buildings and the Gothic cathedral. At its core is the statue of Simón Bolívar,
the South American liberator.
Soak up the village-y atmosphere as you wander round its
narrow cobbled streets peppered with colourful colonial buildings, ancient
churches and museums interspersed with cafés, restaurants and market traders
competing for business.
Take a hike into the past and visit the Museo del Oro (Gold
Museum) to learn how gold played its part in shaping the country. Not to be
missed is the Museo Botero, named after the Colombian artist Fernando Botero,
housing some of his renowned works of voluminous figures as well as paintings
by Renoir and Monet from his personal art collection.
The Salt Cathedral, which has been carved out of a salt
mine, at Zipaquirá, north of the city is well worth a visit, if you have time.
Leave some space on your itinerary for shopping. The Zona
Rosa and Zona T are home to some of the city’s best boutiques, full of names you won’t see at home.
There are also plenty of excellent restaurants in the city. Parque de la 93,
Zona Rosa and Usaquén are all trendy areas. Some of the city’s hippest eateries
are owned by Harry Sasson (harrysasson.com) whom I was told by a local friend,
is Colombia’s most renowned chef.
At night Bogotá crackles with electricity. “Vamos a
rumbear?” (are we going to party?) is an expression that you often hear.
In this heady, sensuous atmosphere, the sounds of meringue, salsa or
vallenato are sure to propel your dancing feet into action. For a night of
great music and food head to Andrés D.C., a fusion of a restaurant and night
club or for the legendary Andrés Carne de Res, in Chia, outside the city.
Bogotá is an intoxicating mix of contrasts. It’s a city that
whisks you up on a whirlwind, engulfs you in its giddy spin and before you know
it, you are completely seduced by its charm.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
I stayed at the Charleston Casa Medina,Bogotá,
(www.hotelcharlestoncasamedina.com) and flew with Iberia via Madrid
Last Frontiers (www.lastfrontiers.com) offers tailor-made
holidays throughout Latin America including Colombia
For more information about Colombia visit www.colombia.travel/en/
