Ask most people to think of a Spanish wine and rioja would
be the one that springs to mind. But, Spain produces plenty of corkers which
are well worth considering this party season.
Berry Bros. & Rudd, Britain's oldest wine and spirit merchant, has recently come up
with its first serious Spanish Offer: 95 wines from 34 producers from 17
regions of Spain.
I asked Simon Field,
Berry Bros. & Rudd Spanish wine buyer, to give me some pointers regarding
Spanish wine.
Simon has an on-going love affair with the traditional
styles of wines from Rioja. “These are wines which flatter to deceive with their modest
colour and extraordinary power and length,” says Simon. “They are wines that
are invariably released to the market when they are ready to drink, which is
rather refreshing in this day and age.”
But, Simon points
out there are great finds beyond Rioja. Ribera del Duero could give the region
a run for its money. The
region’s Vega Sicilia – regarded as Spain’s most prestigious wine
estate – Grand Reserva Unico
wines are not released on to the market until they are over 10 years old –
including at least seven years of barrel-ageing.
“The challenge,” says Simon, “Is how on earth to
disseminate the rest, to evade the increasingly desperate offers from the mediocre, all too prevalent in these parlous
times, and, even more difficult,
to select from the voluminous and impressive canon of wines now being produced in lesser-known regions.”
Although, the work is ongoing, Berry Bros.& Rudd has come
up with a wonderful selection. “Value, approachability and points of difference are the watchwords
here,” says Simon.
Here are a few I have tried and enjoyed:
Gramona, Brut Nature,
Gran Reserva Cava 2007, £16.60
Made by the traditional champagne method, the addition of chardonnay to the permitted grapes (the xarel-lo, macabeo and parellada being the mainstays), and improved winemaking, has led to the production of much better quality wines. So, if you thought cava was a mass-market tasteless fizz, then you will be pleasantly surprised when you try this.
Made by the traditional champagne method, the addition of chardonnay to the permitted grapes (the xarel-lo, macabeo and parellada being the mainstays), and improved winemaking, has led to the production of much better quality wines. So, if you thought cava was a mass-market tasteless fizz, then you will be pleasantly surprised when you try this.
Bursting with stone fruit flavours, fused with hints of
almond and sourdough, this is an extremely drinkable bubbly. No sugar has been
added.
Pinot Noir, DO Catalunya, Celler de Capçanes,
Monstant 2010, £19.95
Pinot noir is a hard grape to grow, but Celler de Capçanes has managed it. Red fruits are tinged with slightly smoky flavours that tantalise the palate. An elegant and enjoyable wine.
Pinot noir is a hard grape to grow, but Celler de Capçanes has managed it. Red fruits are tinged with slightly smoky flavours that tantalise the palate. An elegant and enjoyable wine.
Pétalos, Descendientes de J
Palacios, Bierzo 2010, £16.95
Farmed biodynamically from 60 year-old vines, grown by Alvaro
Palacios – a producer to watch out for
– this vino, made entirely from the
mencia grape, is bursting with rich juicy fruit with a savoury twang. Laced
with smooth tannins, this wine has an almost velvety texture.
El Seque Do Alicante 2010, £24.95
This Spanish mourvèdre enriched with cabernet sauvignon and syrah is a superb complex wine brimming with coffee-flavoured damsons. Delicious!
This Spanish mourvèdre enriched with cabernet sauvignon and syrah is a superb complex wine brimming with coffee-flavoured damsons. Delicious!
By Daralyn Danns
